Dog Training: Importance for Safety and Health

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Cats have two anal sacs under the tail on each side of the anus. The sacs have glands that produce a thin liquid made from apocrine glands (sweat) and sebaceous oil glands. A narrow duct connects the sac to the external surface on the anus. The anal sac liquid has a pungent odor with a mixture of various bacteria and fungi. They are similar to skunk scent glands, however cats are not able to shoot the anal sac material in the direction of the feared animal. The sacs are located under the skin on each side of the anus. Under healthy conditions, the glands will empty with bowel movements or when the cat is frightened. When alarmed the sacs are expressed by the muscles around it. The pungent odor leaves a scent marking territory and a warning to other animals something bad happened here that was scary. That is one reason some animals are afraid at the veterinary facility. In a safe home environment, cats rarely empty the anal sacs. They are not suddenly terrified. If the ducts are not cleaned daily with self grooming, the liquid can start to dehydrate causing a plug in the duct. Older, obese or arthritic cats cannot get under the tail to clean the area with daily tongue grooming. The dried anal sac material forms a dark plug at the duct of the anal sac easily viewed when the tail is elevated. The sac can be palpated from the outside. A full anal sac is approximately 1 cm in diameter, at that point they need expressing. A gloved hand can carefully express the sacs to relieve the pressure. Some full anal sacs will rupture causing an abscess of the skin. Topical treatments and possible antibiotics are needed to heal the wound. Impacted anal sacs can lead to pain and a variety of associated issues. The cat may be less active, hiding, dehydrated, lame, and have selective appetite. Addressing the underlying issue of obesity, pain, with lack of grooming the area can prevent another episode of impacted anal sacs. Have a look under the tail, if black dots are seen on each side of the anus, covering the duct openings, the area can be gently lubricated, moistened, and the duct cleaned of the pasted debris. Consult your veterinarian for learning how to express the sacs. Most anal sac expressions can be done awake if performed gently. Some cats require a skilled tech hold to express the sacs of the dehydrated material which is often a dark paste consistency.

Both dogs and cats have an oil scent gland on the top of the tail near the base. The supracaudal gland is described in Miller’s Anatomy of the Dog as having fewer hairs per follicle associated with sebaceous glands that produces oily discharge. The area of the tail may have benign enlargement and become hairless with age. The oil glands can serve in grooming to repel water from the fur. The gland is prone to the follicles being plugged causing blackheads or comedones. The follicles can be cleaned of superficial dead skin and the comedones squeezed to relieve the plug. Stud tail is a common term used to describe over active tail glands with hair loss and excess oil production. In advanced cases of stud tail, glands have excess discharge and odor due to an infection of the follicles requiring medical attention. Rarely the gland develops tumors requiring removal of the area or tail. 

In most literature and dog training, this is called a play bow or a stretch. However this style of bow, occurs when the abdomen is painful. Most people do not notice it since it can occur hidden. This dog, my dog, was under a table doing this. The dog with upper GI pain is subdued, tail down and tucked under not playful.  The spittle image is just to show you the issue with bubbles in the upper GI that slows natural gas passage. Many dogs clear this issue of GI pain with the vomiting spittle, or eating grass then vomiting, or some dogs panic, eat a sock or foreign object which now complicates the problem making it a foreign body requiring surgery.

In most early bloats, signs of abdominal pain can be missed. Dogs may go into a bow position unnoticed. They often will cough and gag spitting up foamy material. They may start eating odd objects, making the situation worse if they ingest socks or other foreign materials to alleviate the pain. The small bubbles of one of the salivary glands when over active may accumulates in the esophagus and duodenum blocking the stomach. Also a possible culprit of foam bloating are the bubbling surfactants in many man-made liquids for cleaning. The foaming action, such as in cleaning products, can start gas accumulation in the stomach. The bubbles of saliva and surfactants have a reduced surface tension around air bubbles. The foaming bubbles can last an extended time. Fortunately, the bubbles can be broken up by simethicone found in anti-gas gel capsules. Early administration of multiple gas gel capsules of 125mg can alleviate the early uncomplicated bloat. Elevating the front legs also helps the dog to burp. A Heimlich maneuver, under the rib cage with the front legs elevated, can help remove the excess gas. When bloating is not addressed early, the stomach can turn on itself making the situation a dire emergency surgery. Seek immediate emergency help. There are other potential causes of bloat, but uncomplicated bloat can be quickly treated medically. I've seen bloat in any age and breed of dog.

Foot care matters, all movement such as walking, running and jumping starts in the feet. Long-haired dogs need the excess hair trimmed to allow the pads to touch the ground for traction. When the pads are covered with hair, the feet slip with shifting of weight causing injuries in the joints and back. 

Anesthesia nowadays is fairly safe with the precautions taken for testing before a procedure and the monitoring during the procedure. Blood work and EKG testing helps us determine the health of the inside of the body before a procedure is started. Blood work checks the red and white blood cells to determine if they are in the normal range. Such as with red blood cells levels, if the levels are low causing anemia the problem needs to be treated before a surgical procedure. We also check the blood chemistries to make certain the liver, and kidneys are healthy. The liver and kidneys are part of the systems that remove the anesthetic from the blood stream allowing the patient to wake up. The blood chemistries also tell us about the health of the thyroid and general health of the adrenal glands. If there are abnormals found, more lab work may be needed to make the patient stronger for a procedure. The EKG is run to show us if there are issues with the heart. The EKG can show us if the hearth valves are working correctly. If abnormals are found, more advanced testing may be needed such as an x-rays and echo cardiogram to determine if therapies are needed prior administering anesthesia. During general anesthesia a technician monitors the oxygen, carbon dioxide levels and blood pressure. Body temperature is maintained, and IV fluid keeps the blood pressure and hydration in the normal range.

Keeping cats mentally and physically active is healthy. Training your cat to come when called is helpful when they are in the hiding mood. This skill can help when it’s time to give medications or treatments. The basic click training techniques work in cats as it does in other animals. If using a clicker is not your style, use a marker word such as “yes” or “okay.” Learning recall can be started at feeding time. Say their name, click or say “yes”, then a small portion of food is given. Repeat in short sessions. Don’t over train. This takes numerous short sessions over numerous days. Carry cat treats on you during the day. Call their name, reinforce with the marker word, then treat. After the response is predictable, use petting and attention to replace the food treat. Occasionally use a favored treat as reinforcement for the recall. Cutting up high value treats such as freeze dried chicken or beef hearts, minnows, salmon cubes, make treats economical to use in training. Using a training stick is helpful when teaching “touch”. This touch behavior can convert into high five to your hand. Don’t over train, use short simple sessions, repeat often. Revise your technique if after days of attempts, there is no improvement. Keep it happy, simple, and positive.

Cat harnesses provide a secure and comfortable way to control and manage your cat during outings. Cats can squirm making them difficult to get a hand hold. A harness can make getting in and out of a carrier easier as well as leash control during a sniff outing or sitting in the sun. A cat harness that is too tight can cause chafing, skin irritation, or even restriction of movement. On the other hand, a harness that is too loose may not provide the necessary control or security. A harness that is too tight there is no room for fingers to get under the harness. The harness is pushing on the vertebrae of the spine and scapula. This is causing discomfort. Fingers should easily get under the harness in all areas in all positions to reduce damage to the anatomy of your cat. Prolonged use of a poorly fitting harness can lead to skin issues like dermatitis or pressure sores, especially if the harness rubs against sensitive areas like the armpits or chest. It is important to examine your cat’s skin regularly for any signs of irritation and adjust the harness or consider a different style if needed to prevent discomfort. The harness should not impinge on any of the shoulder or elbow joints. Should not cause hair loss or pulling of the hair. Some pet stores allow trying different harnesses on before a purchase or allow returns on merchandize that doesn’t fit when tried on at home. Start young learning to accept and wear a harness. Positive reinforcement during training will make the learning process easier. Short frequent sessions of lure, mark and reward are needed for a cat to learn to wear a harness. Only use the harness when needed, remove when at home. Always remove neck collars when your cat is not being monitored. Have your cat microchipped. if they escape outdoors the chip can be scanned by a vet or humane society to get them home again. Use a tracking system attached to the harness to find them when outdoors so they can be located if wandering outdoors. Training your cat to come when called and responding to basic commands will help make them a candidate for harness training and outdoor adventure. Practice indoors before venturing outside.  Choose the right cat harness and adjust the fit as they grow or gain weight. Regularly inspect the harness for fit and signs of irritation.